Five weeks in Cuba is way TOO LONG for independent travelers like us!! It might be OK for the package tourist looking to relax on the beach, but for somebody on a tight budget that’s seeking an authentic Cuban experience it can be really frustrating… for Cuba is a country of contrasts.

As a socialist system, it’s setup to “look after” its citizens (well sort of…)
A lot of things are subsidised to make them available to the average Joe (or in this case Jorge), earning US$15-20 a month. Education and medical services are free. Bus rides cost US$0.02. Cinema tickets cost US$0.10!!! Street-side stalls sell; a cup of lemonade - US$0.04, a small pizza - US$0.20, sandwiches for as low as $0.15, a bottle of rum for US$0.80. Special state operated markets sell fruit and vegetables at ridiculously low prices (by western standards) - on average 10-20 US cents per kilo. Many things are rationed, such as eggs and milk, to ensure there is enough for everyone. In fact, killing a cow is illegal and carries a sentence of 5 years jail. Also, since the economic crisis of the 90’s, the government has encouraged hitchhiking as a form of transport. Anyone with a government owned vehicle, which is about half the population, must ferry hitchhikers free of charge.

So, on the surface it seems that at least the minimum required to survive is available to all. But what about anything outside of this… the small luxuries or wants (not needs)….? Well, these you have to pay for. Dearly and in a different, ’special’ currency - the Convertible Peso or CUC - originally set up for foreigners. A small can of tuna costs US$4.00, apples US$0.60 each, beer between US$1-2. Calls overseas cost around US$4 per minute and the Internet a ludicrous US$8-10 per hour!! In addition, locals are supposed to use a restricted version known as the ‘Intranet’ with access only to Cuban websites. Signs of a controlling government???

So how can Cubans afford all these things? The truth is that most cannot. But the few that can use money sent by family members working overseas or by skimming it from tourists. The latter almost becoming a national hobby. In Cuba tourists represent money. Cubans don’t understand the concept of backpacking and unless you’re freely throwing around your money, than you’re a bad tourist.

The cheapest form of accommodation in Cuba is the ‘casa particulares’, literally a room in someones house, though it’s impossible to find anything for less than US$20. They’re a good way of getting an inside look into a Cubans daily life and the owners are generally really friendly. That is until you decline to eat breakfast and dinner at their house (for an additional fee of course), after which the smile quickly disappears from their face. This is typical of most things in Cuba, so as ‘tourists’ we stopped looking for the ‘authentic’ Cuban experience and just enjoyed the uniqueness that Cuba’s isolation from the rest of the world offers… The vintage American cars and their Soviet counterparts such as the Lada, communist style bars and restaurants, NO TRAFFIC JAMS, the laid back approach to everything and the sound of salsa in every car, bus and cafe prompting a spontaneous hip-swinging reaction.

Our attempts to rent an old Russian bike (complete with side car) were unsuccessful. Tourists can only rent from authorised government agencies and these only offer 50cc scooters (US$18 per day). It was a tight fit for the two of us and a big back pack, but we managed to cover around 800km, in a 7 day loop of central Cuba taking in Sancti Spiritus, Florencia, Cayo Santa Maria and Santa Clara. It was good to be back on the bike, although it would only accelerate to 50km/h and our butts hurt like hell Consumption was a wopping 5L/100km!! We had a few ‘technical’ problems such as worn out fuses and empty fuel tanks but the locals were on hand to help and it was the closest we came to any ‘adventure’ in Cuba. Unless you consider having your wallet stolen as adventure… Yep, we got robbed of about US$100 and our credit cards

We returned to Trinidad and spent a very low key Christmas. Religion is discouraged under the Communist regime, so Cubans don’t really get into the Christmas spirit. New Years Eve on the other hand is a big family affair with plenty of music, food and rum! We spent it with our friend David and his family, partying till the early hours of 01/01/2010. On the second day of the new year we went out again to the farm run by David’s family. We loved it there. The slow pace of farm life, cheap home made wine and rum, roasted goat with rice, beans and yuka (similar to potato)… so simple yet so satisfying. Some of the best memories we’ll take away from Cuba…

So what’s next?
We’re currently based in Igrejinha - southern Brazil. It’ll take a week or so to clear the Africa Twin through customs and service it. In the meantime we’ll look for a bike for Iza (riding on separate bikes was so much fun in Africa, that we’ve decided to do the same in South America). We’ve also decided to change our route somewhat. From Brazil we’ll head for Patagonia via Uruguay and Argentina. Then swing round and head back north through Chile, Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador, Columbia and Venezuela, maybe even Guyana & Suriname. Then we’ll return to Brazil before making our way to Buenos Aires via Paraguay. We plan to spend a few weeks in the jungles of the Amazon, crossing some sections on a boat. As usual we’ll try to get off the beaten track and visit places untouched by the tourist $$$. These are not only more interesting but cheaper as well. After Cuba our budget has taken some heavy blows so we need to tighten up on spending. All up we’ll probably stay 8-10 months in South America. That’s the plan anyway. What will actually happen, only time will tell…