Monrovia has got ridiculously expensive accommodation, so having picked up the Sierra Leone visa (including permits for the bikes) the same day, we were keen to hit the road immediately. However, maintenance required on the Access meant we had to overnight in the Liberian capital. The cheapest motel we could find was clean enough, but the strangely dim lighting and the fact rooms were charged by the hour, had us sleeping with one eye open.

Over a badly potholed road we reached the Sierra Leone border and crossed into the infamously troubled country without much incident. Eastern Sierra Leone is a major diamond mining area and riding through it means passing countless checkpoints. We lost count of the number of times we had to present our documents and explain our ‘mission’. It’s a good thing that after 8 months in Africa, we’ve switched to ‘African time’…

In general Sierra Leone failed to inspire. The landscape a bit dull and the people, although friendly enough, had a bluntness that can only be brought on by the taste of easy diamond money. The weather didn’t help and the constant rain only compounded the dullness. We decided to skip the capital Freetown and headed directly for the border with Guinea. After being ‘interrogted’ about OUR taste for diamonds, we were sent on our way and crossed the 20 meters of no-man’s land to our franco-fone interrogators who only wanted to know if we had brought them any ‘gifts’ from across the border. 30km’s more of horrible piste (to warn us that Guinea will not be a walk in a park) and we hit smooth tarmac all the way to Conakry. Guinea, like Gabon, has recently seen the passing of their long time president/dictator. Without a nominated successor and the threat of tribal war, the military has ‘temporarily’ taken over and their presence is overwhelming. A military state if ever we saw one!

Yesterday we picked up the Senegal visas which cost only US$6 each. A far cry from the US$100 we were quoted by the Senegalese consulate in Liberia. We also had to attend to the Africa Twin who’s chain had stretched to within breaking point and it’s front sprocket had also run its race (understandable after 48,000km!!). Both needed to be replaced but the chances of finding something in Conakry were slim. Yet, you should never question the resourcefulness of African’s. After scrounging around for half a day, a couple of local mechanics found the replacement sprocket and chain. Not brand new and not exactly to spec, but good enough!

Today we set off for the Falou Djalon region and the border with Senegal.