From Kribi we continued north (on good tarmac) along the coast into anglo-phone Cameroon. Through smoggy Douala and past some banana/rubber tree plantations, we finally reached Buea on the slopes of Mt.Cameroon. In Buea we stayed with Amidou - our (compulsory) Mt.Cameroon guide. He was a great host and his wife kept us well fed on spicy local dishes. These included spinach-like water grass, deep fried banana and ‘fufu’ (Africa’s equivalent to rice or potatoes).

The climb up Mt.Cameroon starts almost at sea level and ascends quickly. Initially through thick rainforest, that gradually give way to savannah clad slopes high above the clouds…

Here the going got really tough. W huffed and puffed as the track followed the shortest path (straight up) to our overnight rest stop - Hut 2. Exhausted, after 10 hours of ascent, we chowed down some pasta and crashed on the straw covered floor of the huts kitchen. Although soft and warm, it was also favoured by rats, so probably NOT the best place to sleep Next day it was a relatively quick climb to the summit (the clouds clearing just as we got to the top), before the looong descent and back into Buea. Our legs hurt like hell for the next three days but the views were worth it and it was a welcome break from the saddle.

Buea to Yaounde was a smooth ride over some nice mountain roads. There was some more roadside bush meat for sale, with the ‘catch of the day’ being a ‘black mamba’ snake and some sort of rare colourful bird. The vendor was really determined to sell us something, but Iza told him she’s vegetarian and that was the end ofhis sales pitch

We’re now in Yaounde, Cameroon’s capital. Since arriving we havent really done much at all, apart from some visa chasing, general maintenance on the bike and the obligatory lunchtime beer at the corner baguette stand. You can say we’re on African time

We’re staying at a Benetictan monastery. It’s a bit too quiet for our liking (the gate is locked at 8pm - just after prayer), but it’s the cheapest option in town, has clean rooms and hot running water.

It’s six months since we entered Africa. After some initial reservations, we have to say we’re loving it! The food, people, wildlife, street life and the laid back approach to almost everything is addictive. There are some things we probably couldn’t get used to though - like termite salad or having your toe nails cut while eating dinner! There’s a surprise around every corner and we’re looking forward to the remaining km’s between here and Morocco…