We finally got our Angolan visas!!
It was just over 3 weeks ago that we first set foot in the Angolan consulate, yet the fate of our visas wasn’t decided until the very end. The mafia (staff) at the consulate are something else. Even the godfathers of Sicily would be proud. They used every delaying tactic available to discourage us from applying (coz it seems they don’t want visitors on our kind of budget). One thing that persuaded them to even accept our application (and we think eventually grant the visas) was a supporting/reference letter from the Polish embassy in Luanda (Angola). Once the visas were ‘authorised’ it took another two full days for his Highness the Consul to tell us the price! Initially he demanded US$700 for both visas. When we disagreed to this ridiculous price, our passports were promptly thrown back at us across the counter. The negotiations began and dragged on for a good 2 hours. Finally we bargained and pleaded the price down to US$150 for each visa. The only catch is that they’re transit visas and allow us a maximum stay of 5 days. That’s good enough for us, at least we can get in. We’ll worry about getting out later.

Last Monday was our 365th day on the road. One year since leaving Singapore! We’ve traveled just under 60,000km and visited 31 countries, with the last 5 months spent on the surreal continent that is Africa. Everyone knows Africa is nothing like any other part of the world, but it’s only once you experience it for yourself that you get an idea of how different and special it is. The landscape and fauna are unique in every sense. Where else can you get trampled by an elephant, drowned by a hippo or munched on by a lion, all on the doorstep of your ‘private’ riverside campsite?

The smallest village and its people are vibrant and colourful (in their own laid back sort of way). They seem forever happy, positive and unhurried by life. They live for today, not worrying about tomorrow. Some in the west might say this is foolish, but what has life in the west become? Of course there are also some negatives - AIDS, malaria, racial tensions, poverty and the annoying view that if you’re ‘white’ you’re rich, make it a challenge. Even so it will be hard to leave…

We have no regrets in choosing to travel on a motorcycle. Sitting on the back of a bike has got to be one of the best ways to see the world. The sights, sounds and smells of each country just couldn’t be experienced the same way sitting in the cocoon of an air-conditioned car. We have also found that traveling alone (ie. just ‘us’) gives us the freedom to choose, without being inhibited by itineraries or other peoples whims and hang ups. Having said that, we do have our ‘quiet’ days… hehehe

As planned, we have stuck to our planned bugdet of US$30 per day, not including transportation, visas, tyres and bike service. Trying to kepp to this budget is not always easy. We camp 80% of the time and keep to a simple (cheap) diet. Still, we don’t complain as there’s always enough at the end of the day for a cold beer. Recently, we even splurged out (US$3) on a chinese radio which keeps us in touch with the world

On average we cover 160km per day (that’s including rest days). The bike is holding up well and the only breakdowns we’ve had so far have been of an electrical nature. Of course we don’t count punctures as breakdowns Our equipment is also holding up well (except for some worn zippers) especially our riding gear from Modeka.

Tomorrow we’ll be crossing into Angola. This should be the start of a very different chapter in our trip. The ‘wilder’ side of Africa awaits, through the little touristed lands of DRC, Congo, Gabon, Cameroon, the Central African Republic, Nigeria and Niger. We’ve been hauling a new set of tyres from Cape Town, especially for this ‘equatorial section’. A Metzeler KarroT (rear) and a Michelin T63 (front) should see us through to Ghana, where it’ll be ‘down hill’ from then on, all the way to Morocco.

P.S. Thanks to all those that have left comments on our blog and guest book!!