Visits to both Lesotho consulates in Pretoria and Johannesburg failed to deliver a quick visa for Iza, who is traveling only on a Polish passport and needs to apply in advance. The application process is too long and regimented, so we’ll just turn up at the border and see what happens. The stay in Johannesburg did allow us to make some new friends though. While losing ourselves in the suburbs (trying to find a camping ground), we’re spotted by Alwyn who invites us to the local version of a BBQ called a ‘braai’. Alwyn’s a local journalist and full of useful information. We take the chance to share some stories and pics from our trip. After almost 10 months, they’re starting to mount up…

Most of the major freeways in South Africa have toll gates. We hate the idea of paying for the use of a public road, so after simply riding past the first toll booth (quickly checking our mirrors for flashing blue lights) we turned off into the safety and scenery of the side roads, following them all the way to Hazyview. Martin and his family had invited us to stay on their farm. We liked the place so much that we stayed five days! During that time we dropped into the Kruger National Park for a game drive, lazed around the cool surroundings of the farm and presented photos of our trip at the local primary school (attended by Martin’s boys - Ben & Zack).

Martin and Sasha are into their motorbikes and traveling, so there was plenty to discuss over beer and wine in the evenings. They also tell us some ‘interesting’ local facts; that you can buy a buffalo for around US$20,000 (lions cost less), that private game lodges can charge up to US$6,000 a night for a ‘personal’ safari experience; that a neighbour’s horse was recently bitten on the bum by a 5 meter croc and that deadly spitting cobras are everywhere! After that last story, Iza wasn’t so scared of the frogs in our room anymore

Riding from Hazyview along the border of the Kruger, we spotted our first rhinosoraus. They quickly dissapeared into the bush, so we continued on to the border with Swaziland (one of only a few African countries still ruled by a king). The border crossing at Josefsdal was simple. Visas were free and no paperwork was required for the bike. We didn’t even bother stamping out our South African page of the carnet.

Swaziland seems like a chilled out place, without the interracial tension of its bigger neighbour. Some of the pine forrested areas in the north reminded us a lot of Europe. It’s a small place and the ride from north to south covered only 200km. We camped for one night before riding back into South Africa and heading towards Lesotho.

We’re now in Bethlehem. Staying with (and being spoilt by) one of the local Africa Twin Club members - Errol. Our private little cottage even has a bath, something we haven’t had since Singapore!