Unfortunately, during both days spent at Mt.Fuji it was overcast. So we did not have a chance to see it reflecting off the lake we were camped at or get that dream shot of the Africa Twin in its foreground. However, there’s always next time…
From Mt.Fuji it was a quick hop across to Tokyo. As it was Sunday, the traffic was light and the ride through central Tokyo was relatively short. Interrupted only by the usual series of traffic lights and the odd procession…

Later on, we found out that at exactly the same time as we entered Tokyo (and in close proximity to us), some madman was stabbing innocent people on Tokyo’s city streets!! Just goes to show you that staying in the ’safety’ of big cities isn’t necessarily that safe..

In Tokyo we stayed with our friends Hiroyuki & Karmen. Resting a few days, we also took the opportunity to plan visas and routes for Central Asia. As always, our hosts in Japan fed us well - this time it was Sukiyaki.

Iza also visited the hangout of Tokyo’s trendy youth - Harajuku - and got some cool pics…

From Tokyo we tracked up the east coast of Honshu, passing north of Sendai and into the port town of Aomori. Luck must be with us, as we just missed the huge earthquake that devastated areas along that same route 24hours later!!
On the way to Aomori we complete our first 10,000km of the trip! And celebrate with a ‘budget busting’ pizza and beer…

In Aomori we board a ferry which takes us to Hakodate on the island of Hokkaido. The ferry ride takes just under 4 hours and costs US$25 per person + US$15 for the bike.

Hokkaido is a favourite destination amongst motorcycle riders, as it boasts fantastic scenery, long winding roads and cheap “Rider Houses” (hostels). Not to mention, a minimal amount of traffic lights

On one of the mountain trails we notice the Africa Twin produces a slight wobble at higher speeds and in tight corners. Upon closer inspection, it turns out it’s the rear wheel - one of the bearings had worn out.
Luckily (again) we are only 50km from Sapporo and manage to find the only motorcycle workshop in town that’s open (it was Sunday). Hopefully we’re not using up all of our luck to soon into the trip…

After our quick pitstop, we ride towards the Shirotoko peninsula on the eastern side of Hokkaido. This is said to be the most remote part of Japan and in which you are most likely to sight the brown bear of Hokkaido “higuma” - our main goal in Hokkaido!
Along the way we visit the VERY picturesque Lake Mashu…

The bears turn out to be pretty elusive but we finally strike gold. While resting in a Riders House and drinking a well deserved beer, one of the locals comes running in yelling “Beru! Beru!”. It’s not hard to understand what he’s on about, so we run out after him and find a brown bear roaming the streets. We pursue him on the bike and get some nice pics…

The bear had strayed out of the forest and was now looking for a way back (past the crowd of amateur photographers). It managed to do so and just in time, as the cavalry arrived…

The whole episode was like out of a movie and a fantastic experience!!
Then to top it all off, we managed to find a campsite with its own Onsen (natural hot spring) for only US$3…

… The traditional Japanese bath, in the natural surrounding of a river and forest, inclusive of several charismatic elderly locals, was the best we’d ever experienced. The visit from some local deer the next morning, wasn’t too bad either…

The final stretch up the coast to Wakkanai was extremely windy. The cross wind blowing in from the sea of Okhotsk at up to 50km/hr!!
Tomorrow we leave on a ferry for the Russian (still disputed by the Japanese) island of Sakhalin. We have been quoted US$250 per person and US$90 for the bike.

From the first Russian city of Korsakov, the real fun begins…