Before crossing the border into Laos, we wanted to explore the mountainous northeast of Thailand, famed for its scenery, hill tribes and winding ‘biker friendly’ roads.
Leaving Chiang Mai we headed east to Nan, about 300km away. This was a relatively flat section, so we arrived early and even had time to give the bike a quick wash and inspection. Both headlight bulbs had burned out and needed replacement. Minimal repairs after 3,500km…

Next day we would cover just over 300km, winding our way around Doi (Mount) Phu Kha, route 1148 (dubbed the best biking road in northern Thailand) and along the Laos border to Chiang Khong - deep in the Golden Triangle.

Although the route was indeed scenic, with some of the best roads Thailand had to over so far….

…we were left a little disappointed. Perhaps we were expecting too much, but we just felt that the commercialisation and development of Thailand has robbed it of it’s authenticity some what. Most of the land has been either logged or farmed, leaving it bare and tainted by human hand.

Also, the hill tribes lacked originality, each selling similar products imported from China. We did meet some interesting locals nonetheless…

We overnighted in Chiang Khong (Thailand’s border town with Laos) and intended to visit the Golden Traingle’s junction town - Sop Ruak - the next day. However, having read that it is nothing more than a tourist trap, we decided to skip it and have a rest day instead.

Laos - Another World

Thai immigration and customs clearance was again a straight forward process.

Almost too easy in fact. No formal check point or security is established and it would have been easy to board the Laos bound ferry without a valid departure stamp in our passports.

The ferry across the Mekong to Laos (with the bike) was quite expensive by local standards - US$15.

Once across it was a struggle to find the immigration and customs offices, each separated by a few kilometers and no signs whatsoever!! Again it would have been easy to simply ride off, but the thought of spending a few days in jail for illegal entry and import of a motorcycle ensured we went through the necessary procedure. US$30 per visa and US$8 for temporary import of our motorcycle. With formalities completed (in around 2 hours), we set off.

Wow! What a difference!! (And not only because of the change to right-hand drive/ride) Small farming villages set against a backdrop of mountainous untouched jungle. The raw Laos countryside was in stark contrast to that of Thailand. One thing that seemed out of place was a new paved road intended for trucks transporting goods between China and Thailand. It did make for a smooth ride though…

Our first night was spent in a small village just a few kilometers from the Chinese border. Here we visited the hill tribes of the Akha and Yeo people.

With a little enduro style riding while in search of their elusive camps…

The people of Laos are very open and friendly. Small kids constantly wave to us and run out to get a better look at the Africa Twin when we stop in their village.

Making our way south the roads have gotten a bit worse. Rough asphalt regularly makes way to patches of gravel road and pot holes appear at the most unexpected moment. Add to that the countless chickens, pigs and dogs that wander out onto the road and you have your hands full.

Our next stop is Luang Prabang. A Unesco listed town nestled along the Mekong, it should make for a relaxing stop…
You can check out some more pics in the photo gallery