We spent over a week in Islamabad. In that time we got our visas issued for the U.A.E and arranged transport of the motorcycle to Dubai. We’ve finally decided to skip the relatively featureless landscape of Balochistan and ship our bike by ferry from Karachi. A big factor in our decision was the security situation near the border areas with Afghanistan and the need to enter U.A.E through an airport (in order to be issued 2 week transit visas).
In general, most locals have advised us against travel on the motorcycle. Saying that things have changed drastically in the last 18 months and Pakistan is no longer a safe place to travel in, especially for foreigners. As if to re-confirm the danger, a suicide bomber attacked a police station just minutes from where we were staying. Kamil even heared the blast!

Before leaving Islamabad, we had a painter from neighboring Rawalpindi give the Africa a facelift…

 

With some spare time on our hands (while the Africa is in transit to Dubai), we decided to visit Lahore and Karachi. In Lahour we were hosted by another local family. Again their hospitality was overwhelming. We haven’t eaten so much in a long time! Bilal guided us around Lahore’s many attractions including Lahore’s food districts….

…. and an infamous ‘red light’ district. Something that is hard to imagine in such an orthodox muslim country. The district is different from the ones you might find in Bangkok or Amsterdam however. A small alley is lined with shop houses in which guests can oficially enjoy traditional music and dance performed by the ladies in full costume. As they dance, men shower the ladies with small denominations of rupees. Any ‘extra’ services are arranged away from the premises and negotiated through pimps. Prostitution is not widespread in Pakistan. This is probably down to the fact that a man is allowed to have four wives at the one time!

We’ve found that Pakistan is a country of many contrasts. On one hand you have extreme wealth and on the other extreme poverty, where people live in roadside shacks and and beg on street corners. They are some of the most peaceful and hospitable people we’ve met so far, yet they cannot rid themselves of the constant internal unrest. Alcohol cannot be found anywhere, but drugs are readily available. Women can reach the highest ranks of parliament, yet they cannot run in marathons. It is also a country in an economic crisis. Power is regularly cutoff throughout the day and its currency is depreciating by the hour.

Despite all the hardship it remains a proud nation. You can see this at the border town of Wagah, where the biggest and strongest of Pakistan’s army try to outsalute and outstomp their Indian rivals during the daily border closing ceremony. Huge crowds gather from each side to support their soldiers, cheering as if they were at a football match