Dushanbe is very typical of a large (capital) Central Asian city. It has wide tree-lined promenades, many public parks, fountains… and police on every corner ‘maintaining the peace’
Everything seems orderly (even the traffic).

This is more than we can say for the Uzbekistan embassy. Here chaos reigns. Locals push, shove and use every trick in the book to get to the front of the queue. The consulate officials only add to the confusion by randomly choosing who to serve next and conveniently ignoring the ‘foreigners’. Finally we also pushed to the front and forced the officer to accept our application. Our visas were issued the same day (US$62 per person) based on a previously obtained letter of invitation (US$35 per person).

In Dushanbe we also ran into German motorcylists - Suzanna & Michael - riding to India on old east German MZ’s. In general they said the bikes were performing really well and they did not encounter major mechanical breakdowns, except for the broken rear wheel spokes and worn bearings which they had replaced three times already. We’re not sure these bikes were designed to carry so much weight…

From Dushanbe we took the very scenic “M34″ road north towards Ayni. Initially good quality asphalt leads up the Fan mountain range, but quickly deteriorates culminating in the ‘river tunnel’ at Anzob. This 5km Tajik-Iranian creation has literally got water pouring out of the floor, walls and ceiling. Certain sections are under about half a meter of water and the whole thing is very poorly lit. On the other side Chinese construction crews work around the clock, laying fresh slippery asphalt which quickly transfers (and sticks) onto the bike. Its not something you want covering your chain, brakes and tyres…

From Ayni we left the M34, heading west for Penjikent and the Tajik-Uzbek border. Again the border crossing was relatively painless except for the SECOND Tajik road tax we were forced to pay because we had lost the receipt from the border coming into Tajikistan. It left a sour taste in our mouths but failed to change our impression of Tajikistan as one of the most hospitable places we’ve visited.

Once past the border, it was only 40km to Samarkand, one of Central Asia’s oldest settlements. It was also a key Silk Road city between China, India and Persia. We stayed in a really chilled out B&B called Bahodir, with rooms for US$8 per person (including a delicious breakfast) and dinner an additional US$2. The B&B was located right next to Samarkand’s prime attraction - the Registan. A collection of impressive blue medressa’s, which stood as Samarkand’s medieval commercial centre.

From Samarkand it was on to Tashkent, the Uzbek capital, over what could be considered a highway for the first time since Kazakhstan. Unfortunately, as with Kazakhstan, the scenery became quite boring with flat dry fields dominating the landscape.
In Tashkent we’re staying with Elena (a friend of a friend from Singapore - Thanks Shi Wei!!) and her family. They have been kind enough to take us in while we obtain the Kyrgyz and Chinese visas required for the next part of our trip.

If all goes well, we’ll be looping back into Kygyzstan through the Fergana Valley and then onto the Kyrgyz-China border at Erkechtam. The situation in China has improved recently and we’re hoping that we’ll get to fulfill our dream of riding into Pakistan over the Korakorum Highway!!!

BTW. We have added some new pics from Kyrgyzstan.